One of the most important things to remember before you begin is that where you place your aquarium is very important, this can have an impact on the health of your fish. You wouldn't want a home in a poor location and neither to your new fishy friends!
BEFORE you buy, check that you have a suitable place for your aquarium. Choose a position away from sources of heat (this includes), draughts and sudden movement (near doorways). Also, avoid places near a hi-fi, television or other electrics that may use speakers as the vibrations can upset fish.
Don’t forget, your tank will need to be placed near an electrical socket!
A water temperature of 24-26°C is standard for a tropical aquarium. This temperature is regulated by a themostat in the heater. A thermometer placed inside the tank will indicate whether the water temperature is fluctuating - it's important to make sure there are no sudden changes in temperature as this is something that can impact the longevity and health of your fishy friends.
Test your water to ensure it is suitable for the addition of fish. The most important things to test for are Ammonia, Nitrite and pH level. If the water has high levels of Ammonia or Nitrite then this could be fatal to the fish and increase the risk of them catching diseases.
We recommend syphoning out one third of the water every two to three weeks and replacing it with fresh. If possible do not use water straight from the tap, fill a bucket then add a de-chlorinator and let it stand overnight until it has reached room temperature.
Remove any algae from the glass using an aquarium scraper. If too much light stimulates algae growth it may be helpful to move the aquarium into a shadier spot. Alternatively reduce the time the light is on. Six to eight hours is normal. Use a gravel cleaner to remove any debris build up at the bottom of the tank. Never clean the tank or its ornaments with general household cleaning products as they may poison your fish and it goes without saying that you shouldn't use insect repellent or any spray polishes or cleaner around your tank.
It is very important not to overstock your aquarium and it is ideally beast to introduce your fish slowly over a couple of weeks. When buying your first fish ask a member of staff for advice on suitable fish for your aquarium.
As a general rule of thumb you can put 1cm of fish to 2 litres of water - this is a guide to maximum stocking levels based on fully grown fish. Don’t forget to account for growth when buying fish. Depending on the size of the aquarium, buy one or two small fish to start off with and wait a couple of weeks before adding more.
When you bring your fish home open the top of the plastic bag and leave them floating in the bag in the tank with the aquarium light off for about 20 minutes so that the water temperature in the bag reaches the same as the water in the tank. You can add tank water periodically to the bag to let your fish grow accustomed to it but try not to let any of the bag water slip into the tank as this may contaminate the levels you have already set up.
Young, growing fish can be fed twice a day but fully grown fish only need to be fed once. A generel rule of thumb is only give your fish as much as the fish will eat in two minutes. Flaked fish food is fine, buy a brand that offers complete balanced nutrition - speak to Pam in store about what she recommends as we have a few different brands available! Fish also like finely shredded greens such as lettuce or spinach and additionally ive food such as water fleas or blood worms will give the fish a more varied and balanced diet.
It is important not to over feed fish as any food left over will rot and poison the water affecting the fish, or even worse, killing them. In fact, too little food is better than too much.
The best way to keep your fish healthy is by providing a clean, hygienic environment for them - many diseases can be prevented by maintaining good water conditions. Fish can get stressed when left in poor water which in turn can lower their immune system making them susceptible to disease. (We feel the same if we're placed in a bad enviroment - if your positions were reversed you would hope the fish would keep you in a stress free environment!)
The following are the most common problems that can affect your fish, but if you have any doubts about the health of your fish seek professional advice!
Fungus: This can be caused by skin damage which has become infected with white or grey cotton-wool like growths. Treat with an anti-fungal treatment.
White spot: Fish can develop small round white spots all over (usually starting at the fins). This is a fast-spreading parasite. Affected fish may also have rapid gill movement. Treat using an anti-white spot treatment taking care to ensure treatment is correct for the type of fish.
Fin/Tail/Mouth Rot: The fish will be lethargic and not move around the tank a lot. Ragged fins and/or tail will appear to be rotting away. It can also affect the mouth with cotton wool-like growths. Use a treatment that tackles both bacterial and fungal infections.
Dropsy (protruding scales): Fish scales protruding like a pine cone, are caused by an internal bacterial infection. Treat with an anti-bacterial treatment.
Velvet disease: Clumps of fine gold spots are a skin parasite which can be irritating and itchy to your fish. Treat with an anti- parasite remedy.
Slime disease: A fish’s response to skin parasites - a cloudy grey mucus will cover the body. Treat with an anti-parasite treatment.